On October 21, 1600, the largest and most important battle in Japanese history was fought on the plain of Sekigahara, lying between present-day Nagoya and the original capital of Japan, Kyoto. Here, the "Eastern" army under Tokugawa Ieyasu crushed a coalition of Western daimyo led by Ishida Mitsunari. This triumph was made possible by Ieyasu's skillful diplomatic negotiations, thanks to which some of his enemies switched to his side during the battle. By some estimates, as many as 30,000 were left dead on the battlefield. Less than three years later, Ieyasu accepted the appointment as shogun, the supreme ruler of the entire country, from the Imperial Court. The regime he established ruled Japan for more than 250 years.
Although today's Japan is very different, the stories of the ancient samurai still fascinate much of its public today. In most Japanese towns and cities, there are many reminders of the past - statues of samurai heroes, memorials, information boards, or simple markers of more or less important places. In recent decades, the previously destroyed majestic towers of Japanese castles have been rebuilt in many Japanese cities (only 12 original tenshu towers have survived to this day). In addition, you can visit museums dedicated to specific events or personalities in many places. These are often small institutions with one or two exhibition rooms, but they preserve an invaluable heritage of the past.
The battlefield of Sekigahara is an integral part of Japanese history, and the Japanese approach it as such. I have personally had the opportunity to visit it on two occasions - in November 2018 and April 2022 - and it was quite an extraordinary experience each time. The Sekigahara is a gently rising plateau of the Kinai Plain. The southern side of the battlefield is bounded by the ridges of the Nangu and Matsuo mountains (it was from this dominant point that Kobayakawa Hideaki attacked the flank of his allies and decided the battle in Ieajasu's favor). Above the northern part of the battlefield rises the 1,377-metre-high Mount Ibuki. The picturesque landscape among rice paddies, bamboo groves, and peaceful forests does not, at first glance, suggest the drama that unfolded here.
However, even as you leave the train station, you feel that you have arrived at an extraordinary place. Billboards with the faces of Ieyasu Tokugawa, Ishida Mitsunari, Otani Yoshitsugu, and Ii Naomasa line the main road, and tourist signs guide you not only to the local museum but also to the former camps of various warlords.
When I arrived there in the fall of 2018, the local museum collection consisted of many interesting artifacts, but the exhibit itself was housed in a relatively modest building. Four years later, everything was different. Thanks to the support of the Gifu Prefecture, an entirely new institution has been built to take the visitor to the past through the means of 21st-century technology. There are virtual aids that bring you literally to the middle of the battle, a spectacular projection hall that will amaze you with its sound technology, and even the exhibits have been greatly expanded. The observation deck, from where you can see a large part of the battlefield, is also very impressive. It is simply an experience you will remember for a long time. The fact that there is an excellent restaurant or a very well-equipped souvenir shop in the museum is matter-of-course in Japan.
However, you will miss a lot if you only stay for the museum tours. The actual "adventure" begins when you take one of the several circuits around Sekigahara. You need to be prepared for quite a hike. Of course, it depends on which route you choose and whether you take the many roads between the fields to shorten it, but even the basic circuit will take at least two to three hours. Should you decide to walk around the entirety of the vast battlefield, be prepared for a full day's hike, during which you'll encounter steep climbs up the surrounding wooded hills. The rewards, however, are more than ample. There are stops at the locations of each army's positions, with information boards, memorials, and the ubiquitous flags flapping in the wind. The walk follows narrow country roads and forest trails. At many points, there are spectacular views of the landscape, which, especially in autumn with its red leaves and the smoke of the rice paddy, is enchanting. Particularly from Ishida Micunari's former command post, which is now "protected" by a replica of the old palisade, the view is truly fantastic, and you get a perspective of what the battlefield might have looked like from the viewpoint of the general of the Western army.
You will find a typical Japanese theme park in the western part of present-day Sekigahara. For a small entrance fee, you can visit an area with statues of samurai in fighting positions and battle scenes that can be quite theatrical. The statues are slightly ravaged by weather and time, but you can still enjoy your visit there, pose with a life-size "samurai," or take a funny selfie. On your way through the countryside, you will also encounter unexpected surprises.
The first time I visited Sekigahara, cutting my way along the road from the place where the Christian daimyo Otani Yoshitsugu famously died to the camp of the traitor Kobayakawa Hideaki, I came almost in the middle of the forest across something purely Japanese - a vending machine selling chilled drinks. Dusty, covered in leaves and cobwebs on one side, it seemed almost unreal, but it worked. Just when I started to feel the lack of water came this completely unexpected salvation. I left Sekigahara after the day's hike, completely exhausted but feeling that I had visited a place with a strong inner spirit, a place the Japanese still remember and appreciate today. For a lover of samurai history, it's almost a paradise and an unforgettable experience, which is also enhanced by the fact that it is not a typical tourist site. The battlefield atmosphere can be enjoyed without the noisy crowds, endless queues, and people trying to grab the best shot. This is one of the reasons why you will remember the experience of Sekigahara for a long time.
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